I couldn't see any evidence of where the chain was hitting. The chain link rollers weren't worn and sprocket teeth were still squared at the end. Timing for the 1.6 im assuming the 1.5 is the sameĬlick to expand.I had a look under the covers, without a protractor i couldn't measure the exact angle but the top of the pin aligned with the edge of the valve cover mating surface like in the picture and the exhaust pin was vertical.
but assuming nissan is like other manufacturers the 15 is most likely identical to the 16 aside from pistons/crank/cams. there seems to be a huge lack of info on the GA15. at any rate it wouldn't be a bad idea to just go ahead and do the timing chain. if the chain is stretched the marks should still line up, if the chain SKIPPED they wont. i'm not exactly sure how you could check for stretching aside from getting a measurement of link length and measuring in between the 2. but all you can do with that is check of the chain skipped a tooth or not. 1 gold for the idler gear and 2 silver for the cams. There should be marked links on the chain. maybe try pulling it off and priming it with some oil and cleaning up the oil feed galley. and it gave me a hell of time trying to get the chain to tension. i just had my tensioner/chain off last week. you can pull the vc off and eyeball the chain as you rotate the crank back and forth to see how long it takes for the upper chain to move. I don't know of any standard way to check for stretching aside from eyeballing it, or setting the chain next to another new one. i wouldn't worry about the engine surge till after you've got the noise sorted out. If the tensioner is doing its job but you're still having chain issues the chain is most likely stretched. On my scooter engine the cam sprocket has alignment marks, and the crank has alignment mark so all i have to do to check for slack is put it into tdc and see if they line up.Īre there marks that will tell me if it's stretched on the car? been having a hard timing finding parts and info on these engines.
#BAD TIMING CHAIN SYMPTOMS HOW TO#
I need to find out how to check for chain stretch because this chain is hitting something in there since the new tensioner (installed dry with locking tab, but probably should have been soaked in oil). The laser i had missed badly from a bad spark plug when it was cold and it felt rough like a truck, yet i only get bounce in this case and i was thinking maybe it was caused by chain slack, or something wrong with throttle and fuel system. It also has less power when it's bouncing. It's smooth when revving up to the 1800 mark but the revs fluctuate as they pass 1800-2000 rpm and at a few other points. I replaced upper timing tensioner with one for a ga16de and now it sounds a bit noisier than it use to so i'm gonna try my old tensioner again (not even worn halfway).Īlso, which parts of the ga16de timing chain system would fit in the ga15de? i can't find ga15de kits for a good price locally or on ebay so if i need to buy upper chain and sprockets it would cost me over $300 in my expensive country.Ĭlick to expand.It's like a bunnyhop when you're learning to drive stick shift, except it's smoother (it's also like the bounce in a rough gear change). How would i check for stretch on the upper chain? i've been reluctant to remove valve cover and upper chain cover cause i used the last of my gasket maker to put it back It also bounces during acceleration specifically between 18 rpm, if i hold it at 1800 it will keep bouncing which makes me think bouncing is more of an electrical or fuel problem. I haven't owned many cars so i'm not sure how a car should perform, but when in low gears the throttle very touchy (stick shift), when you release the throttle, the car bounces rough, but doesn't in higher gears with higher load, i had a ford laser that never did this. I have the ga15de, the 1.5l version of the ga and have noisy timing chain
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